Repair Electric Kettle.

Collection of Kettles

I have a collection of kettles. Jug kettle, electric kettle and conventional stove kettle. This is not my hobby. I accumulated that many kettles because I refused to discard them after they failed. 

Electric Kettles and Jug Kettle

A conventional stove kettle is kept in my house for emergency purposes, in the event of a power failure. The failed electric kettles were kept in the kitchen cabinet, pending a solution.

I considered the failed kettle too good to dispose off as scrap metal. It is also too expensive to repair. The repair cost is not justifiable.  


The standard repair cost (Panasonic, Sanyo or Faber) is about RM120.00 (USD40.00).

            Heating element RM30.00

            Thermostat          RM20.00

            Labour charges   RM70.00

                                        ----------------

           Total                      RM120.00

                                        =========

Thermostat on the Left   and   Heating element on the Right

This is equivalent to the price of a new electric kettle.

The cheaper brands of kettles, made in Malaysia or China cost only about RM90.00(USD30.00)

Why bother to repair the kettle when the new one cost less than the cost of repair? Think of the mother Earth, think re-cycling.

The electric kettle comprises six components i.e. the body, the cover, the handle, the heating element, the thermostat and the silicon or rubber seal between the thermostat and the heating element. The components that usually failed are either the heating element or the thermostat or both.

With DIY skills, repairing an electric kettle is only a screw driver job of 30minutes.

Heating element positioned inside the kettle

I just discovered an electrical components and parts shop in Jalan Pasar, Kuala Lumpur that sells the kettle heating element and the thermostat. The price of these two components are affordable and justifiable to repair the kettle.These two components are standard sizes and fitted most brands of electric kettles.

The heating element cost RM20.00(USD6.30) and the thermostat cost RM12.00(USD4.00).

Secure the Thermostat to the heating element with 3 screws.

I got my old Panasonic kettle working for only RM32.00(USD10.80)

The old kettle bodies are more sturdy. The new kettle in the market today has a thinner steel sheet for the body, slimmer handle and poor quality heating element & thermostat. The Standard life span of new kettle is approximately three years only, as compared to my old faithfully kettle lasting more than ten years..

Old Kettle repaired @ the cost of RM32.00.

Assembling and Installing Curtain Rail

Completely assembled curtain rail.

A standard double storey link or terrace house usually comes with  five (5) windows and one sliding main door plus one side door. This exclude the small toilet windows. For the 3-room apartment, there are three standard windows plus one large window at the lounge.

Blank curtain rail cut to the required length

The standard window size is four feet by four feet ( 4 X 4). The master bedroom window is slightly bigger, i.e. six feet by four feet ( 6 X 4). The sliding glass door at the lounge is usually ten feet by seven feet (10 X 7)

The Malaysia’s standard height of window is four (4) feet and the standard height of door is seven (7) feet.

Cross section view of blank curtain rail

End cap

Most Malaysian house owners prefer to cover the window and sliding door with curtain. Blinds are common in offices and commercial building but rarely used  for home.

The most common type of curtain rail is the hollow channel aluminium curtain rail.

To get a contractor to supply  and fix the curtain rail for the standard double storey house will cost approximately RM420.00 (USD135.00). But if you also purchase the curtain from the same supplier, you may get a discount for the curtain rail of 10 to 20 %.

Curtain rail rollers

Assembling and installing the curtain rail DIY cost only a fraction of the price charged by the contractor or curtain supplier.

Inserting rollers into the curtain rail

The curtain rail and all the components, such as the roller, end cap and bracket, are available at all hardware shop and DIY stores. The hardware shop will cut the curtain rail according to your requirement.

The price of the curtain rail ranging between RM1.20 per foot run to RM2.00 per foot run.. The price of the rail varies with the quality and thickness.

Closing and locking the end of the rail with
End cap.

The components cost and components used are quite standard too. End cap cost RM0.40 each, roller is RM0.10 each and the bracket is selling at RM0.50 each.

Completed curtain rail ready for installation.

You must provide six inches extra curtain rail length for each window. For example if the window is four feet wide, the rail must be four and a half feet long.

Mark the position of the bracket (3 inches above)
before drilling.

For every foot run of curtain rail, three rollers are required. You may add 10% more to the total number of roller, as spare. A bracket is recommended for every three-foot run of rail. A minimum of two brackets are required for each curtain rail.

To assemble the curtain rail, secure one end of the curtain rail with an end cap, with the lock screw tightened.  Insert the required number of rollers into the groove of the rail, through the opposite end.. Finally, close the opposite end of the rail with another end cap and secured it with the screw. It is that simple.

To install the curtain rail, a leveller, and electric drill, measuring tape and wall plugs & screws are required.

Level and align the rail position before
 fixing the brackets.

Drill to fix the plug and the bracket

Curtain rail secured to the bracket

The curtain rail is installed three inches above the top edge of the window.  First, mark the position to fix the brackets. Ensure that all the brackets position are in line and levelled. Then, drill the hole on the wall to lay the plug and secure the bracket with the screws.      Finally, fix and hang the curtain rail to the bracket.  There is only a screw and a clip to secure and lock the rail to the bracket. This is the most important part of the installation. If the rail is not secured properly to the bracket, the whole curtain and the rail can collapse.

Total cost of the job by DIY is only RM66.50 (USD21.50) as compared with the contractor’s cost of RM420.00 (USD135.00). Just look at the amount you can save.

It is worthwhile to be a handyman and practise DIY.

The curtain is ready for hanging the curtain.

Another rail ready for hanging curtain.

Replacing a piece of Dislodged ceramic floor tile.

This triangular piece of floor tile was broken and dislodged from the floor 

Use an A4 paper to mark and cut a template

Mark the shape of the piece of tile
to cut and replace.

One piece of ceramic tile dislodged from the floor. What is your immediate reaction?  Call your “friendly” contractor to fix it. Sounds simple for this simple job. Right? But in reality it is very tough. You may have to call your contractor umpteen times and he still does not show up. Each time his PR response is “ I will call you a day before I come”. The expected visit from him is like waiting to win a lottery.  And if he finally comes, his first suggestion will be “Change all the tiles ah h?” If your response is “one only” He would hesitate and sounds very disappointed. “One only ah h! How much to charge you for this one?” he asked. If the dislodged tile is broken, there will be more problems.

Cut the paper to form the template.

If the contractor is willing to do the small job, the fact remains that he can never get back the same tile, in term of colour and tone. Tile manufacturers can never produce the tile of the same colour and shade for every batch. Even if one goes back to the same manufacturer with the same product code, one can never get a piece of replacement tile of same colour shade. This is the fact one must accept.

Check the template fitting

The contractor has to make a few trips. First trip is to examine the damage and to assess the availability of that particular piece of tile. On the next trip, he has to run to a few shops to source for the tile. If he is lucky, his third trip is to bring his worker to do the job.

Use the template to mark on the tile for cutting.

So, how much do you think he should charge you for that miserable piece of tile replacement?

For that reason, most contractors are reluctant to do tile replacement job, unless one willing to change the entire floor tiles. Moreover, there are many fussy housewives who do not understand and accept this fact.  They will complain and argue with the contractor over the different colour tone and shade.

The replacement tile with marking ready for cutting

A DIY buff will keep all the left over materials from construction or repair jobs. I stored them in the water gutter of the roof. After so many years, I appreciated my own effort.  I have the same tile of the original colour tone/shade to replace the dislodged and broken piece.

Replacing the dislodged tile by DIY can be done quite easily provided you have the right tools and correct cement mixture. 

Tile cutting tool and goggle(for eye protection)

I borrowed a tile-cutting tool from my brother.

Firstly, I marked the shape of the tile to replace, using a piece of A4 paper to cut a template. With the paper template, the cutting line is mark on the tile, to facilitate the precise cutting requirement.

Use a masonry chisel or drill to remove
 the old cement plaster.

Next, I remove the old cement plaster from the floor where the tile was dislodged with a masonry (concrete) chisel. Then, I wash and drain out the debris

After Chiseling and wash up

Cut the tile on ground with grass
to avoid damage tot he cutting disc.

Finally, mix 3/4 portion of cement with 1/4 portion of white lime and a small amount of water. Mix them thoroughly until a sticky paste is achieved.   Apply the mixture on the tile and on the floor. Ensure the required amount of cement mixture is applied to achieve the levelling with the surrounding tiles.   The use of a levelling tool, if necessary to check this. Use a small piece of wood to do the levelling. 


Never use a hammer. You may break the tile.

Mixing the cement into a sticky paste

See the completed job. This is done in two hours.  Let the cement mixture to cure and dry for 24 hours before stepping on the replaced tile.  Keep the tile cool and moist during the curing process by sprinkling some water over the replaced tile after 4 hours.

The replaced tile is similar to
 the surrounding old tiles.
The edge mosaic tiles are also replaced.

Motion Sensor Light

This sensor adaptor from " AVA" Taiwan, is fixed to a table lamp
This cost RM55.00.  Just take out the bulb and fix this adaptor into the bulb
holder. Then, fix the bulb on top of the adaptor.

Do you ever have a strange notion in the midst of sleeping? A state of mind that is vague and  uncertain of oneself.  One is not sure if one is dreaming or in a semi conscious state or is fully awake. I have this experience  whenever I have the urge of easing myself in the middle of the night. Yet, I wasn’t sure if I am in a sub-conscious state of mind, dreaming or actually awake. My hand moves by reflex action to locate the light switch beside the bed. In the darkness, I occasionally push down the alarm clock and the glass ornaments on the side table of the bed.

Close up of the sensor. The red blinking light
indicates motion is detected.

That was history. I have overcame the problem with the PIR Sensor (Passive Infra-Red Motion Sensor) way back in 1988  I bought the first PIR sensor light for RM550 ringgits. This was a proud Malaysian invention by two engineers from Sitiawan.

This is my first Motion Sensor table lamp
purchased in 1988 for RM550.00.
This motion sensor was invented by two Malaysians.
The first generation motion sensor lamp by NOVAL.

Since then, I cannot go on without the PIR sensor light.

This is the second generation sensor lamp by
Noval (Malaysian Invention)

Now, my house is equipped with PIR sensor light in every rooms and at every corners of the house.. I don’t have to  grope in the darkness anymore..  I just simply walk around the house at night  and the light switch on automatically and switch off by itself after the set timing (2 to 15 minutes) expires.

This is a sensor adaptor mounted on a table lamp
This is "AVA" brand sensor made in Taiwan
The cost is RM55.00 

Most PIR motion sensors are also equipped with a photo sensor. The photo sensor can be set to the required degree of brightness or darkness (called LUX) to activate the motion sensor. If one set the LUX to absolute darkness, the motion sensor will only activate and switch on the light when the surrounding is in total darkness and motion is detected.

There is also a built-in timer to set the duration of on/off lighting The motion sensor will switch off the light after the set duration expires, unless further motion is detected.

This "Plug & Play" sensor adaptor fits any standard E27
screw-type bulb holder

Some PIR Motion sensor light are sold in ‘Plug and Play” package. They come in the form of table lamp, stand lamp, wall light and ceiling light. Just plug into a 3-pin socket or connect to AC wire (Live and Nuetral) to operate. One can also purchase the PIR motion sensor gadget separately and  connect to the exiting light fixtures.

The PIR motion sensor light are available at most electrical lighting outlets. The price of this gadget has reduced from RM550 in 1988 to below RM50.00 (made in China) now.

This cost only RM39.00. China-made "Nesly"
wall sensor light.
Real value for money. I put this in my kitchen.

The more advance PIR sensor gadget in USA and EU has a built-in thermal sensor. This more advanced gadget can detect the presence of warm-blooded mammal. This is used to control lighting, heater and air-conditioner in home and office. As long as body heat is detected, the sensor will switch on the appliances or fixtures connected to the sensor.  And of course, this come with a price. 

This is a PIR motion sensor. This can be connected to
any existing light fixture. I fixed this onto one
of my ceiling light in my AV room.
Cost only RM39.00 but DIY to
connect two pairs of wires (L/N)

This gadget is suitable for indoor use only.
The cost ranging from RM39.00 to RM90.00
depending on the brand, PDL, MK, Philips or China made.

What you can see here are all indoor sensor lights. 

See how I fixed the motion sensor to my existing ceiling light.

This is a weather proof outdoor sensor at the car porch


For outdoor use, the sensor light must be weather-proof.  I have outdoor sensor lights at every corner of the house. The light will switch on automatically as I walk in the garden at night and swithc off by itself after the set duration expires.

Another outdoor sensor.

SWITCH/ 3-PIN SOCKET PROTECTOR

Outdoor water-proof switches

Outdoor water-proof  3-pin socket

Electrical switches and power sockets for outdoor use have to be weather-proof, particularly against natural elements of water and heat. These special switches and sockets cost about RM180.00 each compared to the ordinary ones ranging from RM3.50 to RM6.50.

In addition to the weather-proof switches and power sockets for the garden and fish pond, there are a few power sockets on the exterior wall of the building. Although shaded from direct sunlight and rain, they are exposed to rain splashing down on them during thunderstorms. Water then seeps into the socket and over time oxidize the copper element inside, disabling  the electrical contact point.

Outdoor switches for pond fountain pump and lighting.

Switch Protector with the 3-pin socket

A new and cheap gadget is now available. This PVC switch/ 3-Pin socket protector comes in two designs. One is in opaque white and the other comes with transparent cover. The price ranges between RM5.00 to RM13.00, depending on the quality of the PVC material and the brand. 

Spoilt 3-pin Socket.
See the fungus growing on the edges.

To install the switch/socket protector, one needs to unscrew the socket from the wall. For safety reasons, the power supply should be isolated or completely switched off.  

Isolate the electrical power at the MCB
switch board.

Slip the switch protector’s base plate onto the switch and secure the switch with a screw that is ¼ inch longer than the original screw. This is due to the base plate thickness and the soft pad linning . The longer screw is available from any DIY or hardware shop. It costs about 5 to 8 sen each.

No disconnecting of wires is required to install the switch/socket protector.   

See below, the socket protector installed with the 3-pin socket sitting neatly inside.


The flip cover should be closed when the socket is not in use, to prevent water from seeping in.

The spoilt 3-pin socket was replaced with this new socket,
with the socket protecter fitted.